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| The face of the next generation that will surf Backyard. Angelica "Lyka" Palencia (Photo by: Joshua Dizon) |
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| The face of the next generation that will surf Backyard. Marcus Reef "Cocoy" Navalta (Photo by: Laurie Anne De Guzman) |
People have different passion. Passion they prioritize more than anything else. Sometimes, they are willing to risk their needs and put themselves in danger just to keep up with their passion. But somehow, it seems to make it really satisfying once it’s done. They might end up hyped on that event, will sync-in for a while then probably worry about the consequences after. What can I say?! It’s just the way it goes, we can’t think right if we want something really bad.
Surfing was introduced to me way back, with my older brother’s influence. I remember him dragging us to 5-6 ft reef break surf, with no clue what might happen. Even basics of surfing wasn’t instill to us that time, as long as we know how to swim and that’s it! I was the guinea-pig during our early years of surfing, I remember myself paddling to 5-6 ft surf free-leash. It was a shallow reef break, and the volume of waves produced was massive. I didn’t stood up at our 7 ft “gun” surfboard that day, but even though I was wiped-out pretty bad it was a hell of experience. I was lying on our board the whole time, but still the feeling was adrenaline pumping. It’s difficult to foresee set of waves at reef break; it would depend where the swell was coming from. You’re lucky surfing to 3 waves in a row per set with intervals of 15 minutes, but for 5-6 waves in a row per set? You might end up gasping out and possibly drowning. That’s where importance of paddling comes in play. Paddling has an important role in surfing, maintaining the center of gravity and balance on your board was just a fluke. You definitely can’t surf if you don’t know how to paddle! Ask any other surfer and I guarantee that they will come to agree. When catching a wave or even passing through a wave that has broken or about to break, you need to use every reserved strength and energy in your body to paddle and put yourself to a safe spot. Paddling and Duck-diving [to push one’s surfboard (usually a short board) underwater nose-first, to get the surfer and board under a wave that has broken or is just about to break] are your best weapons when passing through a wave. Your survival instincts and courage are needed as well, especially during wipe-outs. Famous Hawaiian surfer/lifeguard once said; “Surfing is the easiest part, surviving is a different story”.
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| Creating a good line with the wall. (Photo by: Josper Cacanindin) |
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| (Photo by: Josper Cacanindin) |
Surfing became my passion since the first time my brother and I went to that shallow reef break and attempted to surf those huge set. My brother even named it Lan-lan’s Point. There’s a different kind of feeling every time I’m on the water, surfing. Also, it’s a different kind of beating every time I got sucked from a barrel and got wiped-out. It’s like being pounded by five heavyweight fighters, no kidding! But every time you survive in that kind of situation, it was so glorified that you tend to go back in the line-up and catch a bigger wave. Sometimes, typhoon swells give me chills. Not because there’s typhoon coming but the excitement to surf huge waves. We’re lucky enough to have our own turf. We have a river mouth and a beach break, including shallow reef break. But during typhoon swells, our beach break called Backyard was the place to surf. It can produce overhead surf sometimes double, left hander and right hander surf depending on the sandbar at the bottom scattered by water current coming from the river. Usual surf spots in La Union cannot hold typhoon swells to create a surfable wave. Our Backyard is hugged in a cove so as the typhoon swell enters; it’ll be filtered by two outside reefs, causing long walls and 100 – 200 meters of surf ride. We were the only locals at Backyard and every typhoon swells we share the drama to ourselves. Imagine yourself surfing alone in a beautiful place; no one is around to share the joy of riding wonderful sets created by typhoons, where usual spots on usual day have a crowded line-up approximately 10 – 40 surfers on the beach fighting for a set.
Every local’s responsibility is to protect their turf. There’s always called a comfort zone for everything. Backyard is my comfort zone when it comes to my passion. It feels like I’m free every time I surf at my turf, it makes my focus at its peak. There were few people who know the place, and we don’t have any intensions of exploiting it. It’s a local’s pride to protect their turf. You got to respect that, it’s like having your own room. There were some spots in La Union that were pretty much exploited by the sport and culture, establishments here and there, visitors crash and put camps, bonfire and beers, and at the end of the day with all those joy and experience they got from the place they don’t even give a care. I’m hoping to those who do that; they should look at things on different perspective, or ask themselves… Is it going to be worth it? As for me, everyone should respect what others respect and be sensible.
With all those being said and told, respecting the sport and its culture will be the greatest, if not, the best thing to do. As a surfer and protector of Mother Nature, let’s all protect something that is the lifeline of our existence. We can’t surf for the rest of our lives. I guess it would be satisfying to see young generations ripping the waves. Every person, all the events of your life are there because you have drawn them. What you choose to do with them is up to you.
